How To Use An Avl Warping Wheel With Cross Maker Youtube

I have an AVL Warping Wheel and honey it.  Here are a few of the things I do that brand it a little faster and easier to use:

1. Wind from multiple cones at once.

I weave with fine threads and more often than not wind with three or four cones at once.  It speeds the winding process immensely.

To make sure the yarn feeds smoothly off the cones, I set the cones directly nether the beater of my loom, and run the yarn up through the reed directly over the cone, so information technology winds off smoothly.

(Apologies for the mess in the photo!)

using the reed to wind from multiple cones at once

2.  Utilise a tension box to even out tension as the yarn winds onto the warping bike.

Sandra Rude suggested this to me when I was having trouble with tension on a fine silk warp.  I ready a tension box on the back beam and run the yarns through the comb (to proceed them separated) and then through the pegs.  I'm non trying for tight tension, but fifty-fifty tension as the yarn winds onto the warping wheel.

using the tension box with the warping wheel

3.  Mount a paddle to the tension box to maintain the cantankerous.

Because I piece of work with fine threads, which tangle easily, I prefer to use a cross instead of securing the sections with masking record.  Here is a photo of the paddle (white affair) mounted to the tension box.  Information technology serves ii purposes: first, information technology lets me create the cross when winding from multiple cones, and second, it keeps the threads neatly together for winding on.

Find the paddle at the front of the tension box; this creates the cantankerous.

To apply the paddle, I gently pull down on the threads equally they come up out of the paddle, and put a finger between the ends.  I then pull back slightly with my finger, separating the height ends from the bottom ends, until I get to the crossmaker.  I put the superlative ends over the start peg of the crossmaker, and  the bottom ends under.  Then I go back to the paddle and pull the threads up, putting a finger between the ends.  Then I separate peak ends from bottom ends and transfer the arrangement to the 2nd peg of the crossmaker.  Then I wind onto the cycle.

(If yous are winding with an fifty-fifty number of threads, you can continue the same downward-and then-upward pattern and however get a 1×i cantankerous.  If yous are winding with an odd number of threads, you take to modify from down/up to up/down each time, which is why I strive to keep an fifty-fifty number of threads in the paddle.  Of course, information technology won't tangle annihilation to accept a 2×1 cross (which is what you wind up with if you don't alternating), but I notice it's easier to catch errors if I use a i×i cantankerous.)

four.  Wind multiple sections at in one case.

I current of air 2-3 i-inch sections at once, which speeds up warping considerably since I only have to wind on once for each batch of sections.  (I have tried warping four i″ sections at once, and while it does piece of work, it'south definitely at the far finish of what the wheel will do, so I mostly stick to two or three sections.)

Here'due south how I exercise information technology:

First, I wind all the sections onto the warping wheel every bit usual.  I accept marked my comb every 5 dents to get in easier to effigy out where to start and stop winding:

marker the comb every five spaces

I use a convenient number of dents per inch – commonly ten because in my feel that is the minimum width y'all can utilise and still accept the section wind across the full width of the 1-inch department.  Only I'll apply more if I need to, to get the right number of ends in each section.

If I am winding two inches at in one case, which is what I usually do, I arrange them symmetrically and push in the pivot that holds the comb in place all the way, so it forms a natural divider between the two bouts, like and so:

two fully wound sections, separated past peg

(If your loom has wooden pegs dividing the sections, yous may need to skip a dent or two to preclude the thread from hanging up on the dividers.  I have metallic hoops and notice it is not necessary to skip dents; the thread naturally slips to i side or another of the hoop, and builds up in nice even sections.  Information technology does not thing if a thread goes to one side of the hoop in one rotation and a different side in the other; it will weave off simply fine.)

Once I am washed winding, I necktie off the cross, and tie a temporary knot in each department to keep them distinct and likewise to prevent them from accidentally slipping dorsum through the comb.  Then I put the top on and transfer the comb to the position for beaming.

Next I attach the sections to the back beam.  To do this, I tie a knot in the nearest section, and loop a larks-head knot around the section behind the knot, as usual.  I then loop a larks-head knot around the second section, and pull the larks-head knot tight around the grouped threads, but practise not tie a knot in the end of the second department.  In fact I untie the temporary knot so there is no knot at all.

It looks like this:

one side knotted, one un-knotted

Now I turn the warp axle merely enough to put a little tension on the knotted end.  Because the larks-head knot is pulled tightly effectually the threads in the second section, information technology should not slip with light tension.

I then gently tug the threads from the second department through the larks-head knot until the tension is fifty-fifty on both bouts.  Like so:

1 tied and one untied section, beingness adjusted so tension is equal

Then I back up the warp beam to release the tension, and necktie a knot simply barely above the larks-head knot on the second department.  Because the larks-head knot is pulled tight, it does not slip and it is easy to adjust the knot.

Now I commencement winding on, taking intendance to angle the comb to get a nice flat distribution across the width of the section.  I too retract the pin that holds the comb so it is non sticking out and disturbing the system of threads:

The warping cycle comb, with the peg fully inserted. Discover how it splits the yarn.

This can occasionally crusade problems, so I usually pull information technology dorsum, like this:

The warping wheel rummage, with the peg only partially inserted then it doesn't carve up the yarn equally it winds on.

And so I wind on the sections.  If I have adjusted the tension correctly and spread the warp correctly in the rummage, I get a overnice flat section across both sections:

A partially wound section. See the dainty fifty-fifty tension?

If I observe that the thread is building up on one edge (making that border tighter), information technology means the warping wheel is likewise close to that edge.  If the thread is building up on both edges (tight edges and slack in the eye), then the comb needs to be angled more than sharply – the section is too broad and then is building upwards on the ends.  If it's tight in the middle and loose on both ends, information technology ways the comb is angled too sharply; the section is too narrow, and isn't building upwards enough on the ends.

Finally, I find that it is much easier to wind on if I put plastic tubing across the 2 adjacent hoops ( as shown in the photo above) – they gently guide the warp threads into place, so they don't "go visiting" in adjacent sections.  (I heard this first from Sandra Rude, just the idea originated with Marg Coe.  Ruth Blau likewise added that bicycle inner tubing works just too, and being more flexible, tin fit on more than looms than plastic tubing.)

That's it!  I hope this has been useful to you – if you still take questions, feel free to leave a comment, and I'll respond if I can.

Source: https://www.tienchiu.com/how-tos/weaving/tips-for-using-the-avl-warping-wheel/

Posted by: dumaisention.blogspot.com

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